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In this issue

BANARAS 82 Change and the eternal city. BY GILLIANWRIGHT THE BACKWATERS 92 On a showboat. BYMANJULA PADMANABHAN KASHMIR 100 Saffron season. BY RIMLI SENGUPTA MANAS 104 Born again. BY S. KALYAN OLD DELHI 108 Classic food. BY LESLEY A. ESTEVES

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