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A new look at an old classic — Tuscany’s landscape, with its undulating valleys and ancient olive groves was made to be admired, but it’s time to do it a little differently. We go beyond the beautiful scenes and slither face-first down canyons in the Garfagnana valley, kayak into hidden caves off the island of Elba, and reveal the hidden lives of butteros — ranchers who have eked out an existence in the saltmarshes of Maremma Regional Park for centuries.

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