WHEN THE CHEF and recipe developer Ham El-Waylly saw stuffed cabbage on the menu at Superiority Burger (119 Ave. A; superiorityburger.com, nr. East 7th St.), he was skeptical. He'd always loved his aunt's mahshi kromb, a finger-size specialty from Egypt that leaned heavy on the cabbage side of the leaf-to-filling ratio. Still, he ordered chef Brooks Headley's tomato-sauced vegan version (pictured), filled with sticky rice, tofu, and braised mushrooms. "It just made my heart sing," El-Waylly says, and he was reminded of meals where his relatives would fight over the parts of mahshi kromb that were stuck to the corners of the pan.
The comforts of stuffed cabbage know no borders. "It makes me feel cozy," says Alison Wu, a creative director who orders the stuffed cabbage anytime she visits Thai Diner (186 Mott St., at Kenmare St.; thaidiner.com). There, chef Ann Redding rests gingery turkey-packed cylinders of Savoy leaves atop a puddle of tom kha broth and makrut oil. A bit further uptown, the chou farci "mandoo" at LittleM&auml;d (110 Madison Ave., nr. E. 29th St.; littlemadnyc.com)-with cabbage standing in for dumpling dough-is filled with Pacific Ocean prawns and foie gras, then served in a lobster sabayon.
Luxury fillings aside, one explanation for cabbage's sudden rise in popularity may be its historic cheapness: Even an extravagant brassica like Napa might run $1.90 per pound. By comparison, heirloom tomatoes can be $7, and Little Gem lettuce costs between $7.50 and $9 wholesale. Kenneth Bower, from Baldor Specialty Foods, reports that the price of most cabbage barely ever fluctuates. "It doesn't have that excitement," he says. "It's cabbage, so it's not sexy." Plenty of thrifty chefs might disagree.

How Did Cabbage Become Sexy?

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