It is possible that I am overstating the case, but I think that South Indian food is having a moment. In Goa, the excellent Hosa is the restaurant of the moment. In New York, Semma has a Michelin star, has wowed the critics, and is packed out so solidly that it is a big deal to score a table. In Kolkata, the most difficult reservation is Avartana, the second avatar of the modern South Indian restaurant from Chennai. A third Avartana will open shortly in Mumbai. On the West Coast of the US, Srijith Gopinathan, who walked away from his Michelin stars at Campton Place, is the hottest Indian chef and continues to open restaurants that celebrate his unique Malayali-California cooking. In Singapore, Mano Thevar has two Michelin stars at his eponymous restaurant, which serves the food of Malaysia's Tamil community. And back home in India, Regi Mathew, who runs Kerala restaurants in Chennai and Bangalore, was recently crowned India's number CARE SMIAN 7123 one chef.
South Indian food is now upmarket. The credit for this must go mainly to the Taj group, which opened The Raintree in Chennai, focusing on the food of the Chettiar community; and then Karavali in Bengaluru, which served home-style food from all over the South. When ITC responded by opening Dakshin in Chennai, the Taj opened its own version: Southern Spice.
This story is from the September 30, 2023 edition of Brunch.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the September 30, 2023 edition of Brunch.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Sunny Leone
Entrepreneur, actor. @SunnyLeone
Going above and beyond
Marom specialises in nature photography. He started with macro photography, or capturing tiny subjects in extreme close-up, to make them look bigger.
Get cot in the act
Vivan Sundaram's 12 Bed Ward is sparse, simple, but haunting. Is this an abandoned hospital, a forgotten dorm, a bombed-out base or something more familiar?
In it for the long haul
Travelling gets better as you grow older. But less pressure and more funds bring with them aching bones and low energy. Here's how to cope
A whole different ball game
The kofta varies in name, taste and texture across continents. It's time India acknowledged its own contribution to the multiverse of meatballs
Opening acts
These young, new musicians are facing family pressure, juggling full-time jobs, and battling the rise of AI. They tell us what it's like to debut in 2024
Bring me the manager
Money won't conjure up a handbag that's out of stock. Angry calls will not get you off a waitlist. Don't be an entitled customer
How to pin down a scam
They pose as cops. They ask for OTPs. They lure you with bonuses. They're so smooth. Here's a cheat sheet to suss out a scam caller before it's too late
Is there truth to this tale?
It's biopic season. It's also a good time to test what movies have learnt from true-life stories and from life itself
Mercury in the microwave
Heat wave? Wave back. On screen, summer looks gorgeous. These 10 films showcase the bright side of the season