THE GATHERING OF four to fi ve chai stalls couldn’t care less. Excitable tourists are tolerated, chai addicts are welcomed, and idle writers are viewed through a curious gaze—all with that special brand of nonchalance so specific to island life. As you sip unhurriedly on a small glass of chai with a sweet, ginger-rich aroma, the backdrop wraps itself around your imagination.
Up ahead, a short boat ride away on the Andaman Sea, lies Ross Island. Once a fabled address christened the ‘Paris of the East’—replete with a pulsating social life, a printing press, an exquisitely appointed grand ballroom with flooring of rare padauk wood and the dreamlike splendour of an opera house—it now rests in ruins as a theatre of enigmas. Decrepit cathedrals, fragments of buildings that once were, and the ghosts of better days lie ensnared in the embrace of age-old banyans and the voraciousness of plant and animal life. A few light beams and sound checks reveal that it’s almost time for the daily (except Wednesdays) Sound & Light Show—a riveting presentation of the island’s origins.
Closer to the Aberdeen Jetty, boats of all sizes and capabilities bob about on the water, either taking passengers across to Ross or simply lying anchored, having been done with the day. The evening breeze has reduced Port Blair’s yearlong balminess and humidity to a pleasing mélange of sea, sky, clouds, and desire. This is the special cocktail of island life. Not much happens, but the heart gets stirred.
This story is from the October 2023 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the October 2023 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Chasing Joy On Rottnest Island
Blue waters, shimmering sandy beaches, and historic sites-Rottnest in Western Australia is the quintessential island getaway. But what truly captivated our cover star Rashmika Mandanna is the happy and laid-back life that the island offers.
AS TIME GOES BY
A decade and a half after a life-changing sojourn in Vietnam, a writer returns to track the country's transformations-and his own.
PARIS MATCH
Royal roots and boho cool, French trad and cosmopolitan flair: Thomas Chatterton Williams visits the Marais and finds the perfect mix.
Spotted in the Wild
Tracking down a creature as evasive as the cheetah is never guaranteed. Jeff Chu treks to southern Africa to find big cats and fulfill a long-held family promise.
Tastes Like History
With a lineage spanning millennia, Armenian cuisine is an alchemist's dream. Veidehi Gite samples iconic dishes that evoke memories of home.
The Abode of Gods
Paphos, the ancient home of Aphrodite, is steeped in folklore. A walk around the old town can turn into a journey to the past; all you need is a little imagination.
Secrets of the Happy State
A road trip from Aizawl to Champhai along the Indo-Myanmar border leads to many revelations for Florina Soren.
Championing Cheer
Fostering mindful atmospheres within corporate environments, Dr Sharon Rajkumar stands as a beacon of positivity, guiding others towards a more fulfilling and balanced life. In a candid chat, the TEDx speaker shares her journey with Kiara Sengupta, on how serendipity led her to become the first happiness evangelist in India.
Doodling Up Joy
Turning embarrassing moments of daily life into comedic relief comes naturally to Neha Sharma. The CA-turned-doodle artist now harnesses the power of her paints to create relatable comics that mirror the everyday. In a hearty chat with Bayar Jain, the self-taught artist and storyteller outlines her journey and underlines the importance of art in bringing happiness.
A Novel Take On Happiness
With his 90th birthday on the horizon, India's most beloved author Ruskin Bond, talks to Eshita Srinivas about love affairs on ships, the excitement of train journeys, and his new book that he hopes will inspire young readers.